York revisited, twice

One city, two day trips and a reminder that it’s people not places that make the best adventures.

After a sustained hiatus from the city of York, this May I found myself there twice in just two weeks! First, a long overdue day well spent with some of my oldest friends, and second, a shopping trip with Jake. One city, two visits, two completely different but equally enjoyable trips. And there’s the unexpected part. Despite sharing the same streets, cafés and landmarks, these two days in York felt entirely different.

With the girls, the focus was fun and food. Two pursuits, both slightly delayed because we travelled by train. On the way in, a tin can experience only sardines should be familiar with. On the way home, it was hot and oppressive. Arriving in the city, we were welcomed by the city walls, soft sunshine and one of the reasons I often hesitate to visit York, the crowds. History, charm and the draw of riverside revelry had the city practically bursting at the seams. And while I wholeheartedly advocate for more footfall on our high streets, York’s crowds did inspire a fresh contribution to my ongoing list of mildly annoying things.

Reconnecting with friends

The last time my friends and I saw each other as a group (still only 6 out of 8 of us) was January. That five month gap isn’t a lack of will or interest, that’s life. From full time jobs, to children, side hustles, hobbies, family commitments, pets and priorities, we’re all busy living. That makes the moments we get to come together even more meaningful in my opinion though. It’s an appreciation that scarcity amplifies rather than diminishes. 

Over Thai food at the lovely Phranakhon, an old favourite of ours we last visited together over five years ago, we talked about everything from decorating projects, to career changes, holiday excitement, new shoes and my personal favourite, the fact my friend’s husband was collecting her by boat at the end of the day! As a huge fan of Leeds’ water taxis, commuting by boat is in my opinion, a highly underutilised and underrated form of transport. 

From Phranakon we strolled to Sotano, an independent bar and tapas restaurant on Little Stonegate where after lurking with intent inside for a short while, we snagged a table outside on the roof terrace. The perfect opportunity to soak in the last sunshine of the day. Several drinks and lots of laughter later, we headed back to the station via The Judge’s Lodging and a well-timed portion of fries, feeling far better connected than when we arrived. Buoyed by good advice and candour only true friends can give. Ready for whatever chaos life could bring next (in my case a £1,000 car bill followed by a randomly broken windscreen and a disconnected washer pipe, but I didn’t know that then). 

Quiet connection with Jake

Learning from the tin can train experience, my return with Jake utilised the park and ride from the York Designer Outlet. And while typically I’d choose the train over the bus, this is a notable exception. It dropped us off just beyond Clifford’s Tower, outside what was The Gallery nightclub back in my uni days. That’s opposite the Futon Company today if you’re too young to remember! From here, and perhaps in a rather unorthodox manner, we headed straight for my favourite gate, Fossgate. Highly underrated in my opinion.

Here we were treated to the window seat at Black Wheat Club where I had the best, literally not figuratively, whipped goats cheese on toast (that’s oversimplifying hugely), I’ve ever had. I would highly recommend a visit here if you haven’t been yet, and if you have, please visit again. Keeping independent, local and incredible places like this on our high streets takes footfall, even in cities like York. 

Next was a stop in Fenwicks where we were very flattered to be asked if we needed help in the handbag department. Mainly because we interpreted that as staff thinking we had enough money to buy handbags there. Not because we looked like trouble! Downstairs in here they have a small collection of furniture and homeware from Heals, a brand I always love and so rarely can afford but in the spirit of creativity, experiencing their displays is fantastic inspiration if nothing else.

We debated departing with an enormous HAY Design tote bag, considered a Paul Smith candle, before ultimately controlling ourselves and heading to the clothing rails. One pair of sensational black denim jeans embroidered with silver stars later, and it was out into the rest of the city.

Several more shops later: Toast, Criminally Good Books, The National Trust Shop (and a peek inside The Treasurer’s House), The Japanese Print Shop and others, it was time for our second coffee stop of the day. This time our pick was the perpetually pleasing Heppini. A bakeri, with an I not a Y, where we enjoyed a flat white, chai latte, a lemon danish pastry I enjoyed and something Jake ate so fast we’ve both forgotten what it was. Not an uncommon occurrence.

Fully refuelled on caffeine and pastry, our final flourish for the day was a slow stroll back to the bus stop. Back again at the York Designer Outlet, this time we headed around our familiar favourites digging for discounts before finally driving home, complete with new purchases, new ideas and a camera full of new photos ready for editing.

Days like this remind me it’s the small joys that matter most. Jake and I don’t need grand plans. A creative eye, finding new perspectives on familiar things or shooting pictures that frame the details that bring depth to the day, can while away hours in contented creativity. It’s quiet connection. Being in the same place, at the same time, seeing the same things differently and pausing long enough over coffee, cakes, new jeans or bus rides to share those views and take away something more than just the things we bought.

Cities often get the credit for the memories we make in them. Yet two visits to York reminded me that places are often just the backdrop. What stays with me long after leaving isn't the architecture or the shopping bags (just the jeans). It's the conversations over Thai food, the friend collected by boat, debating whether a tote bag is worth it, and sitting opposite someone who eats pastries so quickly they disappear from collective memory.